sticks+stone

sticks+stone Founder + Designer, Jacky Stickler

There is no beauty in the finest cloth if it makes hunger & unhappiness. - Mahatma Ghandi

Sustainable fashion is such a marvel of the world. You can see it everywhere and not even know it. I think it was the highly revered civil rights activist, Rosa Parks who said, "Each person must live their life as a model for others." What would the world be like if everyone actively felt and thought this way? As American designer Anne Klein reminds us, "Clothes aren't going to change the world, but the women (and men) who wear them, will."

sticks+stone Founder + Designer, Jacky Stickler

What you wear matters. What you buy matters even more. Amazing women such as the Australian Queensland native, Jacky Stickler,  whom in 2016 founded sticks+stone, reminds us of this. sticks+stone, is an ethical fashion brand for women who care about the planet, and want to look stylish doing so. Jacky is currently planning two runway shows and the impending release of her second collection. FYI: all sticks+stone products are crafted in local Australian production houses by skilled machinists. Interested in learning more? Read my interview with Jacky below. 

Jacky Stickler

Founder + Designer @ sticks+stone

Kelly: Did you ever deal with contention from your family concerning your entrepreneurial pursuits? How did you handle it? What would you do differently in hindsight?

Jacky: I did early on, but I feel like that is a natural settling in period. I left a ‘good corporate job’ that had a promising career path & security, so to be honest it took me a little while to be 100% sure about my new entrepreneurial persuits! So it’s only natural that those close to me would feel the same. My family are now my biggest supporters! My mum has actually started a little blog on Instagram called @randomactsofsustainability after being inspired by our story. Thats the best part, when you can impact those around you to make positive change - that’s what it’s all about!

KM: What was sticks+stone's original mission? How has that mission evolved in the time since?

JS: Originally we started up to influence people to buy ethical & sustainable fashion over fast fashion, but now it is so much more than that! For every initiative that we undertake, we have 3 clear goals; educate, influence & inspire. This is all about not just trying to get people to buy something sustainable & ethical, but educating them on why it’s so important & connecting with them to help them identify whats important to them, then inspiring them to take action in their own way. We aim to undertake initiatives & communicate across a broad range of topics, with fashion as our core.

KM: Do you prefer to pursue funding or build organically, and why?

JS: We prefer to build organically. Whilst this can be tricky, especially due to the cost involved in making things ethically with sustainable materials, we feel that this gives us the freedom to be true to ourselves & consistently authentic with our customers. We have sole ownership over the direction, decisions & communications for the label, so we can keep it real!

sticks+stone

a label you can trust 

KM: Did you have major competitors when you started, how did you plan to compete with them, and how did that plan play out?

JS: We like to run our own race. Our vision in to create things of enduring value for better social & environmental outcomes. We think that the more people that are talking about sustainable & ethical practices, the better. Ultimately this is a people power movement, it will be a collective effort & the voice of many is much louder than the voice of one.

KM: What do you look for in a business partner? 

JS: Someone who shares similar goals & values. I recently collaborated with a very talented local textile designer; Lauren Malone, from @TheIndigoRoom. The collaboration was a dream, because we share similar vision & values in relation to social & environmental goals. We created a beautiful bespoke hand painted print for our feature item from the new collection, the ‘We Are Kin’ Co-Ord. The feature - motif tells the story of how the clothes were crafted with each hand painted element representing an artisans role in the process. From the farmer who harvested the organic cotton, to the designer who sketched the silhouette & the seamstress who sewed each stitch. More information on the collaboration can be found on our website.

KM: Why did you name your brand, “sticks+stone?” Why do you feel your brand differs from other ethical fashion brands?

JS: sticks+stone references the simplistic & natural approach that we take to everything that we do within the label, including our sustainable & zero waste, environmentally friendly practices. It also carries a cheeky little nod to the old saying ‘sticks + stones may break my bones but words with never hurt me’ which also pays homage to the spirit of the sticks + stone girl, who forges her path of choice with passion, irrespective of challenges. You do you girl!

FOLLOW JACKY!

www.sticksandstone.com              @sticks+stone

watch me get ethical with this ethical watch

Sunglasses: Raen, Top: Moschino, Skirt: Thrifted Burberry via Goodwill, Bag: Rabbit, Rabbit! via Fair Trade Federation, Watch: JORD

Time is a concept humans created. Therefore time has been told by humans and humans alone throughout history. We attach meanings to time. Some believe it to be the only remedy to cure wounds, emotional or physical. Others believe that by respecting time we are respecting ourselves. Therefore rendering an awareness of time is as a quality trait, and being "on time," as a sign of good manners. Some view it in a linear philosophical manner, others can't see past Friday night. 

JORD

WATCHES

The way we tell time has drastically changed century to century. From sun dials, to church bells, to grandfather clocks, to alarm clocks, to watches, to cell phones. Time has always been an elusive mystery that we somehow have both too much, and never enough of. How many people say that the amount of time something took was "just right." Time was created by humans, disrespected by humans, overanalyzed by humans. Now we spend the majority of their lives being obsessed with, or disillusioned by time. 

Not for those that have somewhere to be

But for those that have somewhere to go #JORD

Ethical, Wooden,

Wristwatch

As into this watch as I am? Get your own here.  It's the Hyde Series, Ebony + Metal style. JORD here! 

Men's Shop

Women's Shop

We live in a world that views conspicuous consumption as the norm. Rendering the notion, "taking your time," to be a luxury most people cannot afford. In the over scheduled world of today, it is TIME make some TIME for yourself. Think about the type of story you want to tell. Think about the type of life you want to live. Don't forget in this consumerist nation, what we buy speaks volumes about the type of world we want to live in. JORD.

How do you tell time? How getting ethical with this completely wood-based watch. Did you ever think that a watch made entirely out of wood could look this good?

Watch yourself, get JORD.

WHY YOU SHOULD DEADWOOD

Stockholm, Sweden -- Proving punk is very much alive in modern day Stockholm, Deadwood co-founders Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder are immaculately armed in the rebellion against the traditional fashion industry. Their armor consists of badass leather jackets strong enough to hold their own and accessories, I dare say they are fully equipped? Deadwood is counter-culture and anti-establishment while mastering the art of dope ethical fashion by only using recycled leather and adding new products to their line bi-annually. Deadwood ensures that each garment is a reworked iconic style from a time gone by. Should you Deadwood? I would. 

If you're unfamiliar with Deadwood's vibe, check out their latest campaign video below:

I had the good fortune of being able to interview Deadwood founder, Carl Ollson. Ollson and his partner, von Bahder launched Deadwood in 2012 and at the time had no intention of being ethical fashion warriors, they just wanted to do something different. Read about the difference Deadwood is making in my interview below:

Carl Ollson + Felix von Bahder

Deadwood Founders

Kelly Madera: Deadwood has an edgy look that is empirically on trend without trying to be. How do you achieve that? 

Carl Ollson: We put a lot of focus on not being a trend driven brand. We constantly look to the past when creating our collections. Looking at old music magazines, videos of our favorite artists etc. Music is also a huge inspiration!

KM: Who do you see as Deadwood’s competition in the retail market?

CO: Difficult to say. Perhaps BLK DNM? However they're not competitive in terms of price or sustainability, just their aesthetic that's similar. A large portion of our customers are vegans and/or really into sustainable fashion and would never buy a newly produced leather jacket. While at the same time we have sustainability unaware customers that want a good looking jacket that doesn’t fucking ruin them financially.

KM: The ethical fashion industry is gaining traction, and while Deadwood uses leather products, many of them are either recycled or upcycled. Where do you source your materials from? Do you find this to be the crux the brand?

CO: So we make all our leather jackets/accessories from recycled leather. We have our own set up in South East Asia close to a number of pretty expansive vintage markets, it is there that  we source old garments that have reached their expiration date in terms of style and fit. After purchasing, we chop them up and reconfigure the old material into newly crafted, beautiful, up cycled jackets and accessories with a vintage soul.

As you can imagine, it's an odd way of doing things and profusely time consuming. With that in mind we have garnered a great crew to work with, specifically in South East Asia and honestly, I consider them family. We all believe in and love what we are doing. We’re changing the way people view the leather industry one recycled leather jacket at a time.

KM: Does Deadwood have any certifications, or any special impact measure tools to track their environmental or social impact?

CO: We’re signed up to Sedex but that’s about it. For those that don't know, SedEx is a global not-for-profit membership organization, home to the world's largest collaborative platform for sharing responsible sourcing data on supply chains. With the help of SedEx we at Deadwood have started gathering information on the impact and will try to share this on all our products. It’s a cool story - more coming soon!

KM: What inspired the creation of Deadwood?..I have to say it is very badass Swedish..!

CO: We originally met as colleagues in a jean shop in Stockholm. After several years of of dreaming and talking about we finally we opened our own vintage boutique. At this boutique we cultivated our fascination for timeless design and our love for used, pre-loved clothes. From this original shop, our brand evolved, and doing this a different way became a staple for Deadwood.

KM: No ethical brand can ever be perfect, but are there any improvements that you have intentions of cultivating?

CO: Currently, we are working on implementing other product groups using recycled materials. On top of that list is denim. A jeans collection is something Deadwood plans to put out in the next year or so. In order to accomplish it, we have to find the right people to collaborate with. In regards to what we’re currently doing, we never started waving a flag stating that we are some kind of environmental heroes, we just wanted to do something different. The fashion industry tends to be viewed as forward thinking, but in my opinion it isn't, if anything it is the opposite. Deadwood is all about wanting to shake things up. We all do the best we can with what we've got! At Deadwood we as an company are always evolving and constantly in search of new ways to create timeless, trend-less fashion that new, inventive, and most importantly - fun! 

Do you even Deadwood?

You f*cking should!

Quit being a Skeptic, Yo! | Get Mod + Ethico

Candice Collison, Founder @ Mod + Ethico

Did you know that if you're reading this you will likely spend on average, $2288 on clothing and footwear this year? You could easily be purchasing items made in scary places by highly exploited people. Getting the real story behind your spending? It's harder than you think. Even more challenging? Finding the truth about what conditions your clothing was made under.

**NEWSFLASH** Sweatshops aren't exclusive to low-wage countries. In fact, it's likely any clothes you wear with a label saying "Made in America" could be made in a sweatshop not far from where you live or work. This makes companies like Mod + Ethico, founded in 2015, profoundly integral to supporting the changing of a very broken fashion system. 

I had the good fortune of being introduced to Candice Collison this summer via a mutual friend. Candice is everyone's girl crush. Especially mine. Originally from Williamsburg, Virginia, Candice was introduced to world of retail via her mother’s gift shop. There she learned to appreciate how items are made and where materials are sourced. Candice has recently graduated with an MBA from the prestigious, Kellogg School of Management @ Northwestern University. 

I was able to chat with the Chicago resident to uncover the vision she has for Mod + Ethico, the industry and the future.

Kelly Madera: Mod + Ethico has a laid-back, comfortably chic look that is empirically on trend without trying to be. How do you achieve that? How do you source the brands you feature? 

Candice Collison: I seek out brands that prioritize comfortable, soft fabrics, and that have a timeless aspect to their aesthetic. Unlike some stores, I source only silhouettes and hues that I would wear myself - that also must fit into the principles of Mod + Ethico. I do think about trends, and what I believe will sell, but I will not sacrifice principle for style or comfort. I seek elements of trends in updated classics, or in subtle ways which lends to a more effortless vibe. 

Sourcing brands is interesting, I do not attend a ton of trade shows, rather, I look for likeminded brands on Instagram - using hashtags like #ethicalfashion and referencing resources such as Safia Minney's book Slow Fashion, ethical fashion blogs, and listening to Kestrel Jenkins' podcast Conscious Chatter. 

KM: Who do you see as Mod + Ethico’s competition in the retail market? 

CC: I view the competition in two ways: 1) The norm, the alternative to ethical fashion - "fast fashion" and mass fashion - the fashion houses who are not the fast fashion houses per se, but have massive scale, produce in huge batches, and have large brand equity. This happens to be the majority of the market today. 2) The players in the ethical space, who are in some ways competitors, but I appreciate what they are doing for fashion. This includes stores who curate ethical brands, like Amour Vert; online concept stores focused on independent designers line Need Supply, and the brands we sell since they tend to sell direct to consumer. 

KM: The ethical fashion industry is gaining traction, and while Mod + Ethico uses new products, how do you feel about selling recycled or up cycled clothing. Do you see yourself establishing a Mod + Ethico line in the future?

CC: Yes, 100%. I would like to start with denim. My main concern is denim's toll on the environment. It takes an immense amount of water to make just one pair of jeans - nearly I have seen numbers published ranging from 2,500 to 10,000 liters. Starting with denim would make a huge dent in saving one of our planets natural resources. I am also considering developing a clothing line at some point, and I am very interested in using reclaimed deadstock fabric to produce potential designs. 

KM: Do any of the brands that Mod + Ethico features have any certifications or special impact measure tools to track their environmental or social impact?

CC: Yes, we stock Thinking Mu with GOTS organic cotton, post-consumer recycled polyester, they also use hemp which is an incredible fiber: It grows 4 meters in only 4 months, it requires a fraction of the water as compared to cotton, the 100% of the plant can be used for others purposes, it is 10 times more resistant and breathable than cotton and its roots alkalinize the soil.

Groceries Apparel is American-made, and dedicated to organic, natural and recycled fibers.  With over five years of research, we have yet to find a certification that encompasses all of our values. So we started our own. Focusing on human empowerment, organic and recycled ingredients, and local, fair, and responsible manufacturing, our “Seed to Skin” certification is the first of its kind and represents a new standard for the apparel industry.

Veja is a French-based and Brazilian-made sneaker brand who uses FLO certified Fairtrade practices, recycled and organic cotton, naturally procured rubber from the Amazon. Veja uses an organic certification process for the cotton produced by ADEC.

These are just a few brands with certified organic and fairtrade practices, while others are committed to ethical production in more subtle ways, such as producing in small batches in the US and offering fair wages to their dedicated production teams. 

KM: What inspired the creation of Mod + Ethico?..I have to say it represents the millennial generation in a new and refreshing way…!

CC: I initially founded Mod + Ethico with a vision to curate American-made brands. I was frustrated with the quality I was finding in designer brands, and knowing that marginalized populations were behind the production process, while the brands claim a disproportionate amount of the profit outraged me. The American-made focus was representative of fair labor, quality and local impact. However, after watching The True Cost, and discussing my motivations for American-made, I discovered that my principles were further reaching that just American-made. I pivoted a bit, renamed the brand (from Sewn in the USA to Mod + Ethico), and decided to focus on sustainability, Fairtrade, female empowerment, and charity. Mod + Ethico's evolution has stemmed from my own frustrations with the fashion industry and consumption. I still love style as an art form - one of personal expression, but I feel a sense of responsibility to provide better options to my community and beyond. 

KM: No ethical brand can ever be perfect, but are there any improvements that you have intentions of cultivating? How closely do you partner with the brands you feature?

CC: We are far from perfect; there are still brands that we carry from earlier inventory purchases that align with the American-made principle, but not necessarily as closely to the sustainability principle that I am now incredibly passionate about. Going forward, we will be phasing out brands who do not touch on multiple principles such as fair wages as well as sustainability, or fair wages and charity. 

Some brands we know extremely well, like Suki + Solaine who is based here in Chicago. I know the owner, the sales rep, and have visited their studio many times. We know other smaller brands such as Groceries Apparel and email directly with the founder. It's really incredible to be so close to some of the changemakers who began on the ethical fashion path years ago, and continue to make amazing strides in the industry.

Don't miss a thing ----

MOD + ETHICO | INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK

Kilometre Paris | Clothing Without Limits

Location: Harlem, New York. Muse: Atenea

Would you believe it if I told you there was a brand that encouraged traveling, empowered women on a global scale, is entirely ethical throughout it's supply chain, has deep seated roots to a philanthropic organization, AND is the ultimate chic? Meet Kilometre Paris. Created by the sensational Alexandra Senes, whom, like her brand, is literally from everywhere. Born in Senegal, raised in New York City, and relocated yet again to Paris at the age of 17 to begin her impressive editorial career in fashion. Senes' career, much like her life, took her all over the world eventually she becoming the founder and chief editor of Jalouse Magazine. In 2016, she founded Kilometre Paris.

Kilometre has a distinct presence, initially I was captivated by the brand's uniquely embroidered tunics that could easily double as men's shirts. Each collection of Kilometre's perfect-for-summer-light-and-breezy-linen-tunics celebrates cities around the world such as: Karimabad, Pakistan; Niesko, Japan; Costa Careyes, Mexico; Jericacoara, Brazil. Subtly reminding us that we are all global citizens.

I had the unequivocal pleasure of connecting with Alexandra, and immediately, I admired her. Alexandra is a brave, multicultural female force that the world never seems to have enough of. A champion of women's rights by using a diverse portfolio of cultures for inspiration, Senes makes sure to always give credit where credit is due. In addition, Kilometre works closely with the philanthropic Zellidja Foundation, which is discussed in more detail via our interview below. Individually these achievements are impressive, but combined they are extraordinary. The traditional fashion industry hardly ever acknowledges the people that are the most in need of recognition.

This being said, Kilometre is not without attention from the most prevalent voices in the fashion industry, such as: the world renowned  Vogue and the exclusive luxury clothing destination, Barney's New York. 

Kilometre Paris

INTERVIEW

Alexandra Senes, Founder of Kilometre Paris

GIVING BACK IS THE ULTIMATE CHIC + WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT

Kelly Madera: Kilometre appears to have a team comprised of mostly women from all over the world! What do you look for when hiring, is international location a need to have or a nice to have?

Alexandra Senes: It’s not a must but I believe that it enriches the company - every person in my team has a different cultural background, different taste and different life views. This is what makes the brand so strong - everyone chips in, shares their opinion. They all bring in their ‘spice’. I always says that Kilometre is chameleon and my international team is a big reason behind that.

Kilometre unites a community of curious, adventurous, fashionable travellers. We are in the process of knitting together a global network of world explorers who have similar values: an appreciation of artisanal know-how and fair trade, discovery, and style.

KM: Talk to me more about the philanthropic efforts Kilometre is involved in. It looks like the Zellidja Foundation is the primary focus - tell me more about how you selected that organization and why it matters to the brand?

AS: I wanted to give back immediately even before the company had even earned a cent. I say that I wanted Kilometre to give back kilometres to kids. What about making a senegalese kid (since I was born there) travel to Paris ? And i thought but how am i going to pick him. Then I though a sick kid. And same question came. How am I going to pick one kid: sick, sicker then the other … Horrible choices. I looked for an association for at least 6 months.  I even thought of doing my own association. I was already learning a new job as a fashion designer or conductor of a fashion company, i was not going to spend my nights to create an association. When I discovered Zellidja it was a miracle. Zellidja has been sending a hundred kids- between 17 and 20- all over the world since more then 50 years. This association is part of Fondation de France, a government acknowledge. The kids need to have a project to defend. It can be either calligraphy in Algeria, the horse in Mongolia or coffee in venezuela. We sent 4 kids abroad since we exist. One of them was from Bordeaux and left to Tokyo to study "what graphism changes in the life of a Tokyo inhabitant ». Zellidja changed his autonomy, his point of view on the world and maybe his life.  

Location: Brittany, France. Muse: Alice

WE ARE ALL GLOBAL CITIZENS

KM: Kilometre, quite literally encourages its patrons to travel - what a fascinating concept - how did you come up with that? What inspired the brand?

AS: I was born in Dakar, and I spent my teens in Manhattan. I arrived in Paris aged 17. As a journalist for Parisian magazines, I continued to travel around the world to report on places from Beirut to Johannesburg, by way of the Siwa desert in Egypt. For me, travel is truly a way of life. In that way, Kilometre resembles me and is an extension of my personality. I could even say that Kilometre’s stories are my life stories. As a result, Kilometre was born out of my taste for adventure.

In addition, I realised that there was an emerging market for brands that mix travel and fashion. With the exception of Hermès and the brand’s distinctive universe, or Louis Vuitton’s campaigns that celebrate the wonders of travel…the fashion world doesn’t know how to talk about travel. The tourism, hospitality and airline industries are simply not fashionable, which is the opposite of what’s happening in the worlds of gastronomy or contemporary art. This gave me the extra push that I needed to start Kilometre.

Location: Brittany, France. Muse: Alice

COMPETITION? DOES IT EVEN MATTER?

KM: Who do you see as Kilometre’s competition in the retail market?

AS: The brand has a foot in embroidery, travel, lux and ethic segments so we have a bit of competitors everywhere. In terms of retail, I’d say Vita Kin, Mira Mikati, Astier de Villatte, Gucci, Re / Done, L’Uniform to name a few… But don’t take it too literally - I don’t think at all that we do the same thing and are selling to the same customer.

KM: Many of your quite frankly resemble priceless pieces of art in a very Elsa Schiaparelli way, how do you decide which cities to explore and utilize for design creation?

AS: My creative process is directly influenced by that which I see and feel during my travels, and when I meet new people. For inspiration, I visit the Venice and Sao Paulo biennales, or a contemporary art centre on an island in Japan. There, one finds artists from all around the world who know how to celebrate the destinations of tomorrow. I don’t keep a moodboard with clippings of images from cinema, or contemporary dance and art, because it’s the locations themselves that inspire me. There’s something about discovering those unexpected spots that lie off the beaten path. For instance, I prefer New York state’s Hudson Valley to the Hamptons - I find it to be much more up-to-date. Most of all, I love the differences between destinations, and adapting myself to very different surroundings. I feel equally at ease boating whilst drinking cheap rosé on the Canal de l’Ourcq in Pantin as I do on the private beaches of Costa Careyes rubbing shoulders with the jet-set. I embroider all of these experiences on Kilometre’s items. Typically, these embroideries are not literal representations, but a condensed version of my discoveries; like memories that I’ve held of these places. For our Hudson Valley shirt, illustrator Apolline Riser and I decided to use images of kale to represent the area. On the Pantin shirt, you’ll find the buildings that house advertising agency BETC, the 104 cultural centre, Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery, and the Cité des Métiers where Chanel and Hermès have their special order ateliers. On another shirt is an abandoned shack in Kolmanskop, a ghost town that was engulfed by the sands of the Namibian desert. And, the Niseko shirt displays the ski slopes there.

Location: AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS; Muse: Fazeelat

IMPACT + SOCIAL AWARENESS

KM: Does Kilometre have any certifications, or any special impact measure tools to track their environmental or social impact?

AS: We work only with fair-trade companies and small embroidery ateliers. We always continue to stick by our eco and ethic main values. Our main fabric is khadi - which is hand-woven cotton made in India. It’s really a universal fabric - it can be very sexy when transparent and not layered and very modest - when doubled. In our collection we represent both options for different kind of woman.

KM: No clothing brand can ever be perfect, but are there any improvements you have intentions of cultivating?

AS: The fact that the fashion world functions in seasons - it’s a never ending cycle, and all parties involved end up getting caught in it: designers with the necessity to produce at least 4 collections a year, and consumers with the constant need to buy-buy-buy… I want my brand to be out of “seasons”. It’s tough to carve your own way in the established system but I am trying my best to impose it, at least on my clients. And I think it’s working! Starting from July, for example, MatchesFashion will be carrying a range of our Piece Unique models that have been designed over the past 1.5 years.

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